tension-setting: asscher-cut versus princess-cut

tension-setting: asscher-cut versus princess-cut

We often get requests to tension-set princess-cut diamonds.

While we like the aesthetic of a square diamond in a tension-setting, like the one, princess-cut gemstones present a unique challenge in this type of setting... the delicate corners. A tension-setting requires two things to be successful. 1) a ring made from a metal with sufficient spring memory, such that the ring wants to return to a closed state when opened and 2) a gemstone that can withstand the pressure of the ring pressing in on it, trying to close, namely sapphire or diamond. 

princess cut diamond

princess-cut diamond

The challenge of a princess-cut diamond lies on the corners. The delicate nature of those angles can be at risk when the tolerances of a tension-setting are extremely close, and by nature of the setting they are under pressure. A less risky option is to set an asscher-cut which, while still in the square diamond family, has angled sides where the princesses corners are. By eliminating the corner, you're eliminated the most delicate aspect of the princess-cut and you have a stone that loves to be tension set.


asscher-cut diamond in 'the one' tension-setting

As you see in the ring above, an asscher plays very well with the clean lines and angles of a tension-set band. We think there is much t one gained by working with asscher-cuts in this way, as well as minimizing any risk to your gemstone during setting. Which gemstone cut would you choose to set in 'the one'? Let us know in the comments below, we look forward to connecting!



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